Discover sustainable practices, responsible cultivation techniques, and tips to maximize the yield of your crops. Cultivate a more circular and tasty future!
| Name: | Bean Green bean | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Botanical Name: | Phaseolus vulgaris | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Family: | Leguminosas | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Calendar: Zona fría
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It is common to classify green beans based on two criteria, the first is related to the way the plant grows and the second refers to the shape of the harvested fruit. According to the growth of the plant, two types are distinguished: + Low-growing, low-growing green beans, with erect stems 30 to 40 cm high. They tend to be earlier and less productive than the branching ones. The duration of the crop is shorter. + Tall, green bean, with climbing stems that reach 2 to 3 meters in length. They have voluble stems, they tend to have a longer cycle and more productive than the short ones. According to the shape of the fruit: + Flat pods. + Cylindrical sheath.
There are countless varieties of green beans, as examples the following are noted: - Low-growing varieties + Flat green pod: Alba, dwarf garfal, Veronica. + Round green pod: Amata, Gala, Sonate. - Branching varieties + Flat green pod: Garrafal Oro, Helda, Zondra. + Round green pod: Alhama, Nadal, White Perfection.
In small outdoor gardens, green beans are a summer crop. The optimal temperatures for vegetative development at night are between 15 and 18 ºC and 20 to 25 ºC during the day. For vegetative development and fruit quality to be adequate, temperatures should not drop below 10-12 ºC. Below these temperatures the beans begin to form twisted (hooked) pods. Sudden changes in temperature and humidity, as well as temperatures above 35-37 ºC can cause flower drop. These temperature ranges determine that green beans are grown outdoors from mid-May to mid-September in cold areas and from early May to mid-October in temperate areas.
Beans do not tolerate excess water in the soil, thus, they prefer loose soils to clayey ones, although they are capable of thriving in many types of soil as long as they have good drainage and abundant well-decomposed organic matter. It does not tolerate salinity in the soil or irrigation water.
Green beans can be sown directly into the growing field as long as the soil temperature is above 15ºC and the soil is moist, but not excessively so. In cold and very humid soils, germination is slow and irregular and many plants die in the germination process due to attack, mainly by fungi. Before sowing, a semi-deep tillage (25 to 30 cm) must be carried out, with which the manure is wrapped with some fertilizer if it is poor or recently cultivated soil, and then two superficial tillages (15 cm) are carried out with a harrow. or cultivator. Low-growing beans are traditionally sown by pounding, placing 3-4 seeds in each hole, covering them with no more than 2 cm of soil. The planting frame is usually 35-45 cm between bumps and 70-80 cm between rows. If they are sown in a stream, the separation between seeds is usually between 6 and 9 cm. If vining beans are planted and the stakes are going to be canes, the sowing will be done with blows, if plastic meshes are going to be used, they can also be sown in a stream. . The planting frames are similar to those of low growth. After sowing, if the soil is not moist, you can water it lightly. If you want to create seedbeds, it will be done in 7x7 alveolar trays that will be placed in greenhouses or places very protected from the cold, ensuring that they are at temperatures close to 20ºC and in very well-lit places. In each alveolus, two or three seeds will be sown. In the alveoli filled with special substrate for seedbeds previously moistened, a small hole about 2 cm deep is made, with a finger or a piece of wood, in which the seeds are deposited. The seeds are then covered with a little peat. or vermiculite and watered abundantly, being careful not to move the substrate. No thinning of plants will be carried out, transplanting all the germinated ones. In 100 grams of seeds there are approximately 170 to 180 seeds. If you do not want to make seedbeds, green bean plants can be easily purchased from professional nurseries who sell them with root balls.
For transplanting, the soil is prepared in the same way as for direct sowing. In the case of low-growing green beans, the best way to transplant them is to, once a rope has been placed to mark the row, open a trench about 10 cm deep where the plants will be placed approximately every 15 cm, covering the root ball with at most 2 cm of soil. If they are green beans, the transplant will depend on the chosen tutor: if they are canes, they will be transplanted by beating. In each row, holes will be made at a distance of between 35 and 45 cm where one or two root balls will be placed (about 3-4 plants), covering them as indicated above. If the chosen tutor is plastic meshes, they will be transplanted in the same way as low-growing green beans. The bumps or rows are then watered so that the plants become properly established. In the case of gravity irrigation, the ridges and furrows must be made after preparing the land before transplanting.
Watering: Green beans are demanding when it comes to watering. After direct sowing, the next irrigation should only be given after the plants have emerged. In the early stages of development, it is advisable to keep the soil with little humidity to promote greater root development; however, water needs are very high shortly before and after flowering. At these times, the soil must be kept at constant humidity without being excessive. In deep soils, watering every 3-4 days in the hot season is usually sufficient in most cases. Trellising: It is an essential practice in climbing beans to allow vertical growth and the formation of a wall of homogeneous vegetation. You can use canes of about 2.25 meters that, once nailed next to each group of planted or transplanted plants, are tied together at the top, four by four. This prevents the cent from knocking them down. There are also plastic meshes that are placed along the crop lines. To place the meshes it is necessary to build a frame with strong posts and crossbars. Weeds: At the beginning of the crop, the appearance of weeds must be controlled by carrying out the necessary weeding. Once the plants have developed, this monitoring will no longer be necessary since the crop itself imposes itself on the weeds and if any appear will be removed manually.
Consult the integrated pest management guide – legumes. https://www.mapa.gob.es/es/agricultura/temas/sanidad-vegetal/leguminosas_web_2_tcm30-559335.pdf
In spring sowing, the beans begin to flower, depending on the variety, 35 – 50 days after sowing. From that moment on, the plant emits clusters successively. In the climbing varieties you can find floral clusters at different heights, so we can find fruits to collect also at different heights. The beans are collected when they have acquired the appropriate color, tenderness and size between 12-20 cm (typical of each variety) and the seeds containing them have not formed. The pod should have an intense green color with no seeds visible. They should break easily when bending, be brittle. If harvesting is done late and the seeds have fattened (the grain marks), the quality of the bean drops drastically, being fibrous. They should be collected every 2-3 days early in the morning, transporting them in boxes or buckets. In small outdoor gardens the harvesting season can last up to 2 months.
Green beans should be stored cold until consumed.